The Airing of Grievances (Happy belated Festivus!)

As a full-bust blogger, I’ve tried my very best to cheer on new brands that offer D+ styles. I’ve tried to write about new companies so people will hear about them, to offer advice, and to support them when I do have the funds to buy a full-priced bra. But when “fresh, innovative!” new companies are popping up left and right offering the same 28-40 D-G/GG range in bras that are poorly scaled and “bust-friendly” clothing companies are making clothing that just looks… large all over, I get tired of it.

We have enough brands that offer terribly scaled 28-40 D-G/GG bras. And to be frank, D-G/GG cups barely even scrape the lower end of the actual “full-bust” range. If you’re going to do 28-40 D-G/GG, do it well. Don’t just make the same crappy bras that every other brand offers.

One major thing we do need is H+ cups and sub-28 bands. Just fyi, when the few small-band H+ cup bras that are available all have wires that wrap around our backs, it barely even counts. Oh, and if you’re going to make H+ cup bras, maybe consider actually making a few longlines, which give SO. MUCH. MORE. SUPPORT. than standard bands… which is what we need. Why the hell are there no H+ cup longlines?

And clothing… oh god, clothing. (See Bras I Hate and Love’s post on this issue.) Do you know how many places I can go and find a cowl-neck shirt or sweater? Or how plentiful cheap stretchy spandex/jersey dresses and tops are? And if I wanted to wear a top/dress that I have to wear with a belt to get any waist-definition, I’d just get it at Marshall’s or TJMaxx. I’m so sick of seeing made-for-the-busty clothing companies build their collections on cop-outs. You know what we need more of? Well-tailored button-downs, non-stretch dresses with actual waists, winter coats that button…

I’m just so frustrated. I’m sick of cheering on every new and misguided company that tosses around the terms “full-bust” and “bust-friendly”. I want to see a brand actually listen to what we need and want. I’m not naming names, I’m not keeping a public shit-list… but I’m not going to cheerlead companies that aren’t clearly listening to the needs and wants of their target audience.

Fantasy wishlist…

In this post, I will tell you about all of the awesome things I want… that don’t currently exist for boobs.

A galaxy print bra/panty AND/OR bikini set with a print as beautiful as this handpainted panty:

244268_21Feb11_DSCF6460 244268_21Feb11_DSCF6457

Preferably Comexim.

A bra that actually manages to push my breasts up and in:

Our-Bra-Collection

Like What Braologie was thinking, only with much narrower underwires and a fabric front-sling that pulls the cups together.

This shirt:

dreamshirt

Maybe also in black/charcoal… or charcoal/black? Urkye, can you do this?

A dress like this (Nannette Lepore Heartstopper in Emerald) could look so great:

nannette1 nannette3

All I want is a full-bust dress that’s full of gorgeous details. I want to feel pretty, damnit.

Winter coats, like these:

il_570xN.497783319_o0t1 il_570xN.239950902

Fergies-Salvatore-Ferragamo-Double-Breasted-Wool-Coat l_men-s-leisure-stylish-double-breasted-wool-coat-m-xxl-b5b1

I want a coat that keeps me warm. As it stands, I either have a coat that doesn’t button past my waist… or that buttons but lets the cold air in up through the bottom due to it being a tent. But a few of these are made-to-measure, so if I have enough cash, I may go for it!

Review of the Black Pencil Dress by Made in Preston

I haven’t had a little black dress in a really long time. I love black, but most of the dresses I’ve found that work for me are either not available in black… or boring as hell. I’ve also completely avoided high-cut tailored dresses, as that usually means it will completely smash my chest (if I can manage to get it to zip). So when Made in Preston offered me a chance to review one of their dresses, I was intrigued by the black pencil dress:

blackpencildress_front_web

Looks: The dress sort of sits between business-attire and clubwear, which can make it challenging to figure out how and where to wear it.

It the dress fell a few inches longer, I could totally see myself wearing this to work or to a concert (as a performer). I don’t care much about what people consider “appropriate”, but I honestly don’t think I’d be able to bend down to pick something up without temporarily turning the dress into a shirt, which is simply a practical concern rather than one of modesty.

But is also a bit conservative for a party dress. The sleeves/straps are more like epaulettes than sleeves… or straps, which is pretty cool, and the dress is short and form-fitting, but I’d love to see it with a few more fun accents. A chunkier silver or brass zipper (rather than the black invisible zipper) would spice things up a bit, and some embroidery on the epaulettes could work well… but then it wouldn’t be a basic little black dress.

Basically, I’d seriously consider wearing this to work with some very opaque tights… but it would also pair well with bare legs and some very tall wedges.

Fit: Made in Preston offers UK sizes 6-16, as well as 3 bust-proportions for each size. “Fit” is the standard off-the-rack size, “Foxy” is a bit more room in the bust, and “Fab” is a fairly generous amount of extra bust space.

I’m currently around a 28HH/J and was a 30H/HH when I ordered the 10 Fab. My waist measurements put me at a 10, and my bust measurements put me at a 12/14 Fab. But I was wearing a 30H/HH when most calculators suggested a 30K, so my measurements can be deceiving… plus, when buying clothes for boobs, sizing up in the waist to accommodate bust is sort of counterproductive. Looking at Two Cakes on a Plate’s review of the 10 Fab made me a bit more confident- she wears a 30GG, and the top part seemed to have a bit room left yet! Since the material had a decent amount of stretch, I went for the 10 Fab. (Spoiler-altert, I wish they made a double-Fab… or triple-Fab… can I suggest “Fine” and “Fierce” as names?)

The first few tries, I could not get it to zip once it got past my waist. But I fiddled with the zipper a bit and got it to work (miracles). It was on, but my bust was definitely flattened a bit. Not nearly as bas as an off-the-rack US size 6 would be, but definitely not enough space for my bust. In the photos I took, you can see some buckling of the fabric around the underbust- my boobs were trying to steal fabric from the waist! A 12 Fab might have worked better (and been more “work-appropriate”, but I love the waist definition that the 1o gives… so I’d love to see this in a 10 Fine or Fierce! ;)

Photos (taken in a messy bathroom… sorry):

front1front 2

This sort of shows how squished my boobs are from the side:side squish

It’s great from the front, though:

front top

 

Valentine’s Day Wishlist

I finally found a place to live. Things are still stressful, but I’m excited to be blogging again.

I don’t usually do wishlists like this, but seeing all of my fellow-bloggers’ wishlists inspired me to jump on the bandwagon and share some of the pieces (not just bras!) that I have been lusting after!

What Katie Did Storm corset ($350)storm

I’ve been wanting a corset for ages, and the Storm corset from What Katie Did seems like a solid choice- it’s beautiful, well-made, and relatively simple. I’d love an embroidered or lace-covered corset, too… but if I’m going to have just one, it’d be this one.

Rosamosario Mezza Luna lace-appliquéd silk-chiffon robe ($875, sold out)

mezza luna

It’s sold out… and I’d never be able to afford it, anyway, but wow this is one of the most gorgeous pieces I’ve ever seen! Teal and gold happen to be one of my favourite colour combinations, and this robe does a spectacular job of combining rich colors and fabrics without looking tacky.

Angela Friedman Clair de Lune robe ($295 for ivory$265 for black)

clair ivoryclair black

Yet another robe(s) I’ve fallen in love with! Less outrageously expensive than the last, but still way out of my budget. The black, sadly, doesn’t come with lace on the sleeves, but I suppose that accounts for the price difference. The ivory one would look stunning with an ivory corset and stockings. And I think I already own enough black lingerie to pair with the black robe…

Gossard Opulence set ($130.20)

opulenceThe bra stops at an E cup, which makes me really, really sad… but I could always get the thong and suspenders, right? Or maybe I could get a 38E and try to take in the band? (Or really replace the band entirely, which would be a crazy project.) Really, though, this is a beautiful set! If you’re lucky enough to fit into their size range, I envy you!

Fauve Lucia set ($200)fauve-lucia-chocolateAlso not available in my size (currently around a 30HH), but the 32G or maybe even a 34G would be worth a shot. I’ve never really thought about brown lingerie as being sexy, since it’s always fallen under the category of “skin tone neutrals”… but, damn, this is lovely! This set would be gorgeous and subtle on dark skin and rather stark on pale skin like mine. 

Fauve Bronte set (~$225)bronte silver

Same brand, same sizing situation… except that  longline bands run tighter, which means that a 34G might actually fit me! The pale blue/silver and creme is a surprisingly beautiful colour combination (and, oddly, doesn’t look too “bridal” to me), and the laces and embroidery are beautifully crafted! Figleaves doesn’t have any 34s left, though, and there don’t seem to be too many other stores that stock this that will ship to the US.

Are you wondering where the Ewa Michalak and Comexim bras are on my list? I just placed orders with both of them, and, since it’s a wish-list, I didn’t want to put ones I’ve already bought right at the top… but I couldn’t exactly leave these off, as they are perfect for a Valentine’s Day list:

Ewa Michalak HM Burek (photo shows SM style)

HM Burek

So gorgeous! It doesn’t scream “Valentine’s Day!”, but it’s a delicate and beautiful lace, which wins it a spot on this list. I actually got this in a 65H SM  from someone via a Bratabase swap, but it cut into my tissue pretty badly, so I’m trying a 65H HM. Fingers crossed!

Ewa Michalak SM Malinka

SM MALINKAIs this too cliche? I don’t usually go for red/pink (this is supposedly a reddish pink color), but the lace was so gorgeous that I couldn’t help but try it! I wanted to order this in the HM style, but they ran out of fabric and could not do the custom order. I got the SM (in a 70HH, the closest size available), just in case it does work on me… 

Comexim Iris

Iris

Another lovely lace! Juliette (aka the most beautiful bra ever) was sold out before I managed to place an order, but I didn’t lose Iris! About a year ago, I  bought a used 60L Giselle to gauge my size in this brand and found it snug in the band and too high in the cups (but almost too small). So I  decided to get a 65K with lowered cups and gore… this bra is super pretty, and I really hope my crazy-custom ordering will work out here!

And since this is a wishlist, I should mention that anyone is welcome to help me buy items from this list! On my “about” page, I’ve added a section explaining how to tip/donate, if you’re so inclined. 

A fitted slip: my first major sewing project

I don’t like following patterns.

I’m a bit proud of my spatial reasoning skills and, anyway, there’s no way I’d be able to make a conventional pattern work for my boobs. Also, I wanted to make a 1930s-ish gown/slip-thing out of a stretch satin fabric… to fit over a(n admittedly too-small) 30G Parfait Jeanie bra. So, yeah, there was no way in hell that a pattern was going to work anyway.

But rather than looking at similar patterns and then drafting my own, I kind of just decided to wing it. I drew a quick sketch of my planned dress and then started sewing. My though process was thus: “Okay, so I need to sew a tube (ribcage-floor) and then take it in at the waist, sew cups and attach them, sew straps and attach them, and then add godets to the skirt. Simple.”

It didn’t end up being so simple. The godets were a pain in the arse and the cups… well, I ended up just cutting random shapes that somehow made a 3-part seamed cup (I had some luck). But I got through it!

Looking at it now, I wish the seams were neater, I wish I’d put the cups in straighter, I wish I’d made the cups a bit more covering, etc. But I’ve worn it… multiple times. I’ve received a lot of compliments on it, too!

I was too caught up in the “joys” of sewing to take progress pics…  and I don’t have any good full-length shots that really show the skirt, but here are a few pictures of the finished product:

slip full 1 slip side 3

slip front 1

slip side 2slip side 1

Things I’d like to buy when I have money…

The “when I have money” part is important, since I’m a very, very broke college student, with plans to continue my studies in graduate school. So I might be broke for a while.

And (of course) being a broke college student, I do a lot of online window shopping (tab shopping, perhaps?). And sometimes a thing stays on my “I want this” list for a really long time, which, I think, means that I should eventually buy them. And this has been a crazy final semester, so maybe I can find an excuse to treat myself to clothing that fits? Here are a few things that I’ve wanted to buy for a really long time now:

Urkye blouse:

Urkyerohe

I’ve been looking for a blouse for ages. Truth be told, I don’t actually have anything events that would require me to wear a blouse, but I think the very fact that I have never been able to fit into a blouse (and had to wear them as part of my middle-high school uniform) makes me want to find one that fits me. The construction looks wonderful and the shape is perfect. Also, the style of the shirt is quite professional. I’d probably go for it in black, but a white blouse could come in handy and the blue is really pretty. I’ve been holding off, though, because I’m worried about sizing and ordering from a different country complicates things.

Comexim bra(s):

nadin

Really, there are a bunch that look nice. And I want some Polish bras, because the narrow/deep cup just fits my shape a lot better than the wide/shallow cups that most UK bras have. And all of the options are really beautiful. I’m just tentative, because I’m unsure of my size. I tried a used 60L, which I thought fit like a very snug 28J (though someone else thought was more of a 30H). I think I’d try a 65J? But I’m really not sure.

Ewa Michalak bra(s):

kobalt

Again, I’ve wanted a lot of these bras for a while, but I’m scared off by the sizing and ordering from another country. It’s a big commitment. I’m also not sure which style I want to buy. I tried a used 32G HP Kobalt and am thinking that a 30GG might be a better fit… but then I’ve also heard that the PL bras run small in the cup, so I have no idea. But I have a 100 zl voucher to spend, so this is definitely on my list of things to try VERY soon.

Clearly, the common theme here is that I’m worried about buying something from Poland when it’s really unclear what size I should wear… which is why I really love reading reviews of items. :) Hopefully, I’ll be able to purchase and review some of these things soon!

Deadly Dames Film Noir Dress!

So I’ve had my eye on this dress from Pin Up Girl Clothing for a while now… the Deadly Dames Film Noir dress in rusty rose:

noir

By a while, I mean well over a year. If you’ve read any of my other posts, you’re probably already aware that, as a starving college student, I am quite thrifty… and, thus, tend to do more window shopping than actual shopping. But I needed a dress for my thesis performance and had been in love with this dress for a long time, so when infamous Black Friday came around and a 35% off coupon presented itself to me, I started thinking about it again. Amazingly (because almost never happens), my mother was willing to buy it for me.

According to the size chart, I should need a small in the waist and a large in the top. I considered a medium, but the website advised: “if you are between sizes we suggest that you order down if you desire a more snug fit like in the photos. We also suggest wearing like colored undergarments with this dress.” After buying the dress in a small, I found a bunch of photos/reviews on Pinup Girl Style and was a bit nervous to note that most the people who looked about my size had ordered the dress in either medium or large. But the deed was done and, I figured, the worse case scenario was that I would have to exchange it for another size. Plus, I have been losing weight and would rather have a dress that is slightly snug than one that I would hope to be too small for soon.

The dress shipped quite quickly and, upon opening the package, I was immediately struck by the quality of the velvet. THIS IS THE SOFTEST VELVET DRESS THAT I HAVE EVER FELT. I was worried that the velvet would be iffy-quality (part of my reason for choosing a light colour- cheap velvets are worse in dark colours), but it’s wonderful and I would seriously consider buying this in black or emerald (though I wish they had a burgundy or plum colour). Basically, I’m a huge fan of velvet dresses and would gladly fill my closet with them.

I did notice that the dress was tiny and I was worried that it would be way too small. But, lo and behold, the stretch velvet is quite stretchy. The small fit wonderfully. I wanted a snug dress (like in the photos) and I’m glad that I went for the small instead of a medium or large.

My crappy mac photobooth pictures don’t do the colour (or texture) justice, but here’s how it fits:

noir front 4noir front 3noir side 2noir side 1noir top 3noir top 1noir top 2

The weirdness of the lighting and the angle at which I took these made my cleavage invisible, but I assure you, it was there. but the magic of this dress is that, due to its stretchiness and mostly-unattached cowl, you can choose how much cleavage you want to show.

NB: The actual colour is somewhere in the triangle between the stock photo, my too-much-light-photo at the end, and my darker photos.