What I want in a bra

Over the past few years, I’ve tried countless bras… very few have actually fit me. It’s not a sizing issue as much as a shape/construction issue. Here are some of the things I’d love to see in a bra:

1. Deep cups and narrow underwires. As cup sizes go up, the cup takes up more and more of the band (a 30H has less band than a 30G). While I have breast tissue farther back than VS thinks, my boobs don’t wrap all the way around my torso! If I want a bra that contains my breasts, the wires usually end up almost at my back… and a bunch of the cup is empty and effectively part of the band. This isn’t solved by a larger band and smaller cup, as then the band is just too big (and the cup is still too small). I still want a small band… I just my cups to project outward, like my boobs do!

2. Shorter cups. Similar issue. It seems like designers think that boobs expand in every direction other than out. Sometimes it feels like the only difference between a 30GG and a 30H is how tall the cups are. I have big breasts, but I don’t need a bra that goes up to my collarbones…

3. Cups with immediate projection. I’d like my boobs to actually sit in the bottom of the cup for once. That’d be real nice.

4. Smaller gores and cups/wires angled inward. I don’t want my bra to pull me east-west. I want a bra that holds my breasts up and pushes them together a bit. I want my cleavage, damnit. I’d really love a G+ push-up bra. :)

5. Longline bands, 4+ rows of hooks. Why do I only see longline bands in smaller cups!?!? If most of the support is coming from the band, then longline should be an obvious solution for heavier breasts! I see them all the time in the B, C, and sometimes D cups… and occasionally up to a G-cup with Freya. But why stop there? Let’s see some GG+ longlines, please.

6. A band that extends below the cups. My boobs start high on my chest. Cups that dip lower than the band pull my breasts downward, which is really not what I want from a bra.

7. A band made of one material, with the same tension throughout. I’m so sick of bands that fit, but cut in due to sharp, thin elastic at the edges of a much looser fabric. Give me one thick elastic as the band! Or a stretch satin with no elastic at the edges! Really, that would be amazingly comfortable.

As soon as I find a place to live, I plan to make my dream bra out of an old and almost totally destroyed Ewa Michalak half-cup bra and some gold stretch satin. Wish me luck? (I welcome anyone who has helpful bra-making links to share them with me!)

18 thoughts on “What I want in a bra

  1. You and I are wanting very similar things! The wider band, in particular, is something I am craving because as much as I like my Cleo bras, those two hook-and-eye closures drive me nuts. It’s time manufacturers started rethinking the way they designed bras for larger cup sizes.

    1. What gets me, is that almost EVERY Cleo bra has this issue… Even if the actual bra construction is large and sturdy, they team it with this narrow little band which squeezes all of my back padding into a very unflattering shape. I understand that some do like the skinny bands, but can’t they at least switch it up and make a few bras with wide bands?

  2. My wishlist is very similar:

    Narrow, projected cups with immediate bottom projection and more hooks than two in larger cup sizes, and I really have nothing against more full band styles…

    * in practical colors. Is it really that much to ask that a lingerie company make their best cuts in practical continuity colors, even if they’re a youthful brand? Even teenagers need to wear white shirts or sheerer blacks sometimes. I’m looking at you Cleo, you take Lily which is one of the best narrow and projected cuts you have and you make a baby blue one with coral trim when I really need a black without ribbons, bells and whistles, and a beige while you’re at it. I know of people who buy black Marcie babydolls and cut off the babydoll part so they can have a Marcie in black. People even experiment with dyeing!

    * with a stretch lace or mesh top edge/section to accommodate more breast shapes and my cyclical slight swelling.

    And something that’s very unlikely to happen:

    * Elomi in 32 band size (one strapless doesn’t count) and with more styles starting under G cup in 34 band.


    * Some sort of underwire compromise between Panache/Cleo hard and pokey and Freya buttery soft that distorts almost by breathing on it.

    1. I’m totally fine with my bras showing under/through clothes, so I don’t mind impractical colours and lacy bits… but I know that some people want bras that don’t show through clothes, and I’m always happy to see more options. :) Really, I’m just tired of all large-cup bras being ULTRA FULL COVERAGE and being visibile under everything but turtlenecks. :P

  3. As a 32JJ (sometimes K) I am so sick of bras where the wire is so long they practically hold my shoulder blades in too!

    I would love bras with narrower wides and more fabric infront.

    Also what is with straps that only shorten half the way? I want my boobs up not on my belly and the band only does so much, especially when you took half of it away to fill with cup space.

    Also the ‘triangle’ shape sucks, I don’t want the top part of my bra where it meets the strap showing under my clothes. Cant they just make cup, then attach the strap, like the normal moulded bras and stuff do in smaller sizes?

    A straight across cup would be so much better for cleavage too and stop the dreaded diagonal quadboob when you lean backwards.

    Somedays if it wasn’t for all the migrated backfat and jiggle factor I think I was better off in my 36G or even god forbid my F cups than my 32JJ granny bras!

    Also am I alone in wanting more plain black/nude/white bras with smooth seam free cups?

    multicoloured lace is pretty and all that, but the chances of it matching my clothes? nill. I can hide a nude or black strap, a bit of black or white cup showing over a vest of that colour is fine, I don’t want a bright pink with yellow lace and blue ribbons announcing itself to the world.

    1. Haha, yeah, I really don’t mind my bras showing under/through clothing. But I know a lot of people do, and I think that’s the more common stance, so I don’t get the lack of plain and low-cut large-cup bras.

    2. Heresy I know, but I no longer swoop and scoop aggressively. I lean over to settle into a bra and then put my hands high on my waist/upper torso (same thing since I’m short) and easy tissue forward. Eliminates back bulges and makes me feel comfortable. If I swooped and scooped aggressively I would need to go up a cup size or two (no change in band size).

  4. YES! THIS!
    I am becoming especially annoyed by the skinny little bands on Cleo bras and others. Argh, major back fat is not a good look :(
    And deeper cups, yes. I think our breasts seem to have a similar shape, as I had the same problems that you did with the Parfait Charlotte.

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